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A Sambalpuri sari is a traditional handwoven bandha (Odisha Ikat) sari (locally called "sambalpuri bandha" sadhi or saree) wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is a handloom sari produced in the Sambalpur, Bargarh district, Balangir, Boudh district and Sonepur district districts of Odisha, India. Sambalpuri saris incorporate traditional motifs like shankha (Conch), chakra (wheel), phula (flower), all of which have deep symbolism with the native Odia culture. The colours red, black and white represents Lord Kaalia Jagannath's face colour.
The sari is a traditional female garment in the Indian subcontinent consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters in length that is draped over the body in various styles.Alkazi, Roshan (1983) "Ancient Indian costume", Art Heritage; Ghurye (1951) "Indian costume", Popular book depot (Bombay); Boulanger, Chantal; (1997)
These saris first became popular outside the state when the late Prime minister Indira Gandhi started wearing them. In the 1980s and 1990s they became popular across India. sambalpuri sarees are suitable for all season" Hindustan Times, 5 September 2009. The handloom silk saris manufactured in Sambalpur and Berhampur (Berhampur Patta) in Odisha were included in the Government of India's Geographical Indications (GI) registry to protect the livelihoods of the artisans. "'Sambalpuri saree' and 'Berhampuri pattu' to get GI recognition soon" The Hindu, 8 March 2009. "Sambalpuri saree set to be protected" NISCAIR Online Periodicals Repository, March 2006.
The salient feature of these saris is the traditional craftsmanship of the 'Bandhakala'- the Tie-dye art reflected in their intricate weaves, also known as Sambalpuri "Ikkat". In this technique, the threads are first tie-dyed and later woven into a fabric, with the entire process taking many weeks.
This versatile technique enables a craftsman to weave colourful designs, patterns and images into a fabric capable of inspiring a thought or conveying a message. Traditionally, craftsmen created Baandhas with images of flora or fauna or with geometrical patterns. More recently, new types of Baandha depicting portrait, landscape and flower pods are being designed.
It is believed that this art migrated to Western Odisha along with the Bhulia community who fled Northern India in the year 1192 AD after the fall of the Chouhan empire at the hands of the Mughals. Since then and up to the year 1925 it flourished in Western Odisha in a limited number of designs and in vegetable colours and consisted mostly of saris used by the womenfolk of the Odisha.
The factory production of Sambalpuri saris has negatively impacted traditional handloom artisans.
| Attabira, Bargarh, Bheden, Barpali, Bijepur, Padampur, Sohela, Bhatli | 8 |
| Birmaharajpur, Sonepur, Ulunda, Binika | 4 |
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| Khariar (Sinapali) | 1 |
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